You’ll notice them within an hour of landing on Kauai. A red-and-gold rooster crossing the Lihue Costco parking lot like he owns it. A hen and seven chicks picking their way across the rental car return. A whole flock spilling out from under a hedge at the Poipu shopping center. By the second day you’ll have stopped photographing them, and by the third day, if your hotel room window faces an open lot or a hedge, you may be wondering whether earplugs were the most important thing you forgot to pack.
They’re called moa in Hawaiian. They’re not native, they’re not really wild in the traditional sense, and they’re not entirely domestic either. The story of how Kauai ended up with thousands of them, and why the other Hawaiian islands have far fewer, is one of the more interesting accidents of modern Hawaiʻi. It involves a 1992 hurricane, a 19th-century sugarcane decision, a pre-contact Polynesian canoe, and a couple of escaped fighting roosters with a lot of free time.
Here’s what’s actually going on, and what to do about it as a visitor.
