Lumahai Beach

Located within the North Region on Kauai

Lumaha'i Beach on the north shore of Kauai, just around the western edge of Hanalei Bay, is the epitome of the picture perfect beach with a crescent of golden sand ringed with greenery. There are two beaches here with two distinctly different personalities:

Lumaha'i Beach at the far western end is a local hang out spot where Lumaha'i Stream enters the ocean;

Kahalahala Beach on eastern edge of the beach is commonly called "Tourist Lumaha'i" for its popularity with visitors and/or "Nurses Beach" because of its prominence in the filming of the famous "I'm gonna wash that man right out of my hair" scene in South Pacific.

To reach Lumaha'i take Highway 560 west from Hanalei toward Ha'ena. A nice trail runs from the top of the lookout right before mile marker 5 at the eastern edge down to the beach OR drive further north and park at Lumaha'i Stream.

The trail is a short and pleasant walk with beautiful tropical foliage. While there is shade at the edge of the beach where it meets the forest, the mosquitos can be vicious here so it is best to bring a shade umbrella if you are going to "tourist Lumaha'i" and want shade. If you are here on a sunny day, you may notice that the sand at "tourist Lumaha'i" is extremely hot to walk on; that is because there is a large amount of green volcanic glass (olivine) in the sand.

In the summer time, calmer water, protected by the small lava crop outcropping at "tourist Lumaha'i" make for a fun swimming place with many local teenagers climbing the rocks and jumping into the clear blue water. Only do this if you are absolutely certain in your water skills as one must always be vigilant at Lumahai, even near the lagoon, as the sand bottom is steep which creates an unexpectedly heavy shore break. In the winter this is impossible because of the high surf and it is absolutely essential that you stay off the rocks when the surf is high. One of the most common reasons people drown on Kauai is because they venture out on lava rock shelves in between sets to get a closer view of the ocean or take a photo and when the set comes up, the waves crash over the shelf, knock the person down onto the rocks where they are bruised and cannot get up in time to prevent being dragged over the rocks and out to see where they perish. Drownings of this type are reported every year in Hawai'i and many more near drownings or big scares occur when someone is knocked down, is able to recover and returns to safety, bruised and with a renewed respect for the power of the ocean.

"Locals Lumaha'i" at the western edge of the beach has many shady areas that are less buggy than at "tourist lumahai". Many families come here to play in the river; but make sure to look around before you get in. If nobody else is in the river there may be a reason for it; and if the surf is high, monitor the river surge at the top of the sets to make sure you do not get pulled out by a large wave.

Being outside of the protected waters of Hanalei Bay, all of Lumahai Beach experiences significant shore breaks, backwash, and strong currents - so once again, watch the water for 15 minutes before getting in; see how it changes with the sets and what type of swimmers are in the water and remember; never turn your back on the ocean and if in doubt, don't go out!

Lumahai Beach

Lumahai Beach became famous in 1958 when Mitzi Gaynor filmed the "I'm Gonna Wash That Man Right Outa My Hair" scene from South Pacific here. The setting has not changed much since. Lush green mountains drop down to a wide crescent of white sand, framed by black lava rock. It looks like a movie set because it was one.

A Look-Only Beach

Do not swim here. Lumahai has no reef protection. Waves break directly onto steep sand, creating a heavy shore break that can slam you into the bottom without warning. Strong rip currents pull offshore. There is no lifeguard.

People drown at Lumahai. The beach looks inviting from the trail above, but the water is deceptively violent. Stay on the sand. Take photos. Wade ankle-deep at most if conditions are dead calm, but know that sets vary in size and a rogue wave can sweep in fast.

Stay off wet lava rocks at either end of the beach. If the rocks are wet, waves reach that high. People have been swept off these shelves and killed.

Two Sections

The eastern end, sometimes called Kahalahala Beach, is the famous filming location. Visitors call it "Tourist Lumahai." The western end, where the Lumahai River meets the sea, is where locals hang out. The river side has more shade and fewer mosquitoes. Families play in the river here when conditions are safe, but watch for ocean surge pushing up the river mouth during high surf.

Getting There

Take Highway 560 west from Hanalei toward Ha'ena. Just before mile marker 5, a lookout on the right side of the road marks the trailhead. A short, steep trail drops down to the eastern section of the beach through lush tropical vegetation. You can also drive a bit further and park at the Lumahai River bridge to access the western end directly.

What to Bring

Sunscreen, water, a camera, and a shade umbrella if you plan to stay at the eastern end. The sand there contains volcanic glass (olivine) and gets extremely hot on sunny days. Mosquitoes can be aggressive near the tree line, so bug spray is worth packing.