Finally we came to a stop at the end of the rutted road to Papakolea – Green Sand Beach - and I climbed out of the truck and brushed the dust off my clothing, thanking the driver and paying my $10.  As I walked towards the edge of a pile of rocks the first thing that caught my eye was a giant natural ‘sculpture’.  It was a wind and water-carved headland that appeared to be made entirely of olivine - the semi-precious stone that gives the beach its greenish tinge.  I later discovered that this ‘headland’ is actually a partially collapsed cinder cone called Pu’u Mahana, which formed over 49,000 years ago and has since been partially eroded by the ocean.   The Green Sand Beach is known locally as Mahana.  I learned that the cinder cone is indeed rich in olivine, which is a crystal that forms as the lava cools.  The beauty and wonder of the volcanic Big Island of Hawaii never ceases to amaze me.

The olivine stone, affectionately called the ‘Hawaiian Diamond’ can be found in many locations on the Hawaiian islands.  It is found in the greatest concentration at Papakolea.  Because the tiny stones are denser than volcanic ash, they accumulate on the beach sands whereas the ash washes out to sea.  The cone appears to be soft and easily sculptured with a consistency similar to sandstone, which must be due to the mix of ash and green stone.  The constant erosion of the cinder cone not only creates an impressive design in the rock but also ensures that there is a steady supply of the beautiful green sand to color the beach.  It is almost as though nature herself has taken to the beach with a gigantic paintbrush.  Certainly Pele – the notorious volcano goddess of Big Island - has had a hand in this artwork, as she is the reckoning force in charge of the destruction as well as the creation of land on the Island.

I stood on the edge of the huge ‘bowl’ created by the partially eroded cinder cone, and took in the wonder of seeing green sand for the first time. Eager to experience the feeling of the sand under my feet and between my toes, I began the steep climb down the side of the bowl to the shore.  There were steps carved and a ladder had been placed at the sheerest descent, so as long as I took it slowly it was fine.

The sun had been hidden behind distant storm clouds, but as my toes touched the sand, it reappeared and its golden rays illuminated the beach and the tiny green olivine stones sparkled in the sunlight like emeralds.  The sand felt soft in parts and coarse and gritty in areas where there was a higher concentration of the stones.  I ran my hands through the sand and as I inspected it more closely I could see the tiny green stones were mixed with black, white and grey ones, contributing to the olive color of the beach.  I spread out a towel and lay back on the warm sand, taking in the beauty of the place.  As I looked up at the steeply-sloping side of the natural amphitheater, I could see how the heavier green stones had been washed down and accumulated on the beach, leaving the slopes to be more of a gray color of the volcanic ash.

Inviting azure blue waters beckoned me to dive in.  I approached the crashing waves cautiously.  It is not recommended to swim here, as there can be hidden currents.  I chose to just dip my toes in and that experience in itself was refreshing.  The beach was fairly crowded – it seemed that many keen tourists had made the trek.  Apparently the local Hawaiian people who offer the shuttle service will wait for their passengers to enjoy the beach at their leisure before returning them to their vehicle.

I would have loved to enjoy lazing on the beach for longer, but since I had decided to hike back, it was time to leave.  I vowed next time to arrive earlier and laze longer.  Once I made my way back up the cinder cone slope, the journey back to the parking lot was quite a pleasant hike.  Windswept and exposed, the stark landscape was surprisingly beautiful in the afternoon light.  The undulating dusty maze of roads presented various routes back, but it was easy to find my way by just following the coastline.  The green and brown fields and patches of deep red earth contrasted beautifully against the expanse of sapphire-blue ocean and black lava rock.  White coral that had been washed ashore dotted the shoreline, and tidal pools filled and emptied with the surge of the sea. The afternoon light danced on the waves and many pods of whales breached and splashed playfully, barely a half-mile beyond the shoreline.

I reached the parking lot after meandering along the coastline for an hour.  It had required some effort to get to Papakolea, but as I reflected on my experience whilst driving onwards towards Kona, I realized that it is a good thing that there are still some places left in the world that are not so easy to access.  Perhaps this makes us appreciate the beauty of them more, especially a find as rare as a Green Sand Beach.

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