It is one of the things that make the drive to the resort areas of Kihei and Lahaina so enjoyable. It dominates the panoramic views along the south shore of Maui. Along with wintering whales and the gorgeous blue hues of the Pacific Ocean, Kahoolawe greets returning visitors like an old friend and fascinates first-time visitors. But, even though the barren island has a rich history, the Forbidden Island is still much of a mystery to all.

Located only six miles from Maui’s Maalaea Harbor, Kahoolawe along with Lanai, Molokai is one of four islands that make up the jurisdictional County of Maui. The island’s official color is grey and the official flower is the hina hina vine. Just 45 square miles, it is separated from Maui by the 7 mile wide Alalakeike Channel and from Lanai by the 17 1/2 mile Kealaikahiki Channel. Known in ancient times as Kohemalamalama or Kanaloa after the Hawaii god of the ocean, Kahoolawe has been waterless and uninhabited for many years.

Many years ago this island was a thriving village of Hawaiians who fished the waters of Alalakeike, grew taro in the interior portions of the island and excelled in the teachings and instructions on the ancient art of celestial navigation. Haumana or students would spend evenings with master navigators learning and watching the movement of stars across the night sky. Days were spent observing and learning about the wind, sea currents, birds, ocean mammals and sun.  Many legends speak long ocean voyages between Hawaii and Tahiti via the Kealakahiki Channel which translates to “the road to Tahiti.”  Ancient Hawaiian legends tell of the guiding stars being positioned directly over Kahoolawe and ancient mele or songs tell of ocean voyaging canoes making the long trek between Hawaii and Tahiti.

The island also has a contentious past that includes fierce battles for control of the island between Maui’s warrior Chief Kahekili and Chief Kalaniopuu from the Big Island. But powerful Kahekilinuiahumanu would persevere in retaining his control over Kahoolawe until Kamehameha the Great began his quest for unification of all islands in Hawaii.

Kahoolawe has played a role in post contact Hawaii that included extensive ranching, a penal colony, and a forest reserve. During World War II and the bombing of Pearl Harbor in 1941, Kahoolawe was used as a live fire bombing target that supported air missions throughout the Pacific basin and in later years Vietnam.  The bombing practice has contaminated fresh water sources on the island and left it riddled with unexploded ordinance and large non-nuclear bomb craters...

Today, evidence of ancient Hawaiian life is still evident in stone carvings or petroglyphs, upright stone fishing shrines, religious heiau or platforms and life is slowly beginning to return to the desolate island. A weather station reports on conditions from the southern Honokanaia area, the land is being replanted with native Hawaiian medicinal and edible plants and a new rain water system is in place. Native Hawaiians frequently visit for educational and cultural reasons.

The rest of us are regulated to view this legendary land of Kanaloa from where it sits silently off the shores of Maui and under the celestial guiding stars forever in the realm of Kanaloa.

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