Chain of Craters Road

Mile Marker 10.2-15.9 various lookouts
If you are itching for another opportunity to view the coast, pull over at the Halona Kahakai pullout at mile marker 10.2. Depending on where the lava is flowing during your visit, you may be able to see the steam plume where the lava is entering the ocean. Near mile marker 11.5 the road takes a dramatic hairpin turn which you should approach with caution. In another mile, the elevation will have dropped to 1,000 ft as you rapidly approach the coast. Building a road on an active volcano is a practice in patience as evidenced by the Alanui Kahiko pullout at mile marker 13.7. The pullout marks the location of the old Chain of Craters Road which was coated in lava by the Alae Lava Shield flow of 1972. You can still see sections of it peeking out from underneath the lava.

To fully grasp the enormous power of the volcano that you are driving on, pull over at mile marker 14.4 at Holei Pali lookout. It is easy to see how the lava came pouring in waves over the Holei Pali forming gigantic swaths down the hill. The lava oozed its way to the ocean to continue building the Big Island.

Mile Marker 15.9 Pu’u Loa Petroglyph Field
The Big Island has the highest concentration of ancient Hawaiian stone carvings in the state. Some have estimated that the Pu’u Loa Petroglyph Field has between 15,000 and 20,000 drawings. Once you reach mile marker 15.9 you’ll see two pullouts on either side of the road and a small park sign marking the start of the .7 mile petroglyph trail.

The walk to Pu’u Loa takes you over an ancient field of rolling lava with small scrubby plants pushing their way between the cracks. The path is well-worn and marked by cairns (little piles of rocks). The pali rises to your left and if you look over the ridge you could see Pu’u O’o chugging out its volcanic fumes. The park has built a boardwalk to protect the fragile carvings while still allowing visitors to enjoy them. You may see drawings of men with broad shoulders or long torsos. Above all others, the set of concentric circles with a small dimple in the center is ubiquitous. Fathers would place pieces of their newborns’ umbilical cords in the holes as a way to ensure long life. The ancient Hawaiians had no written way of communication and it's believed these drawings could have been used for that purpose. Please be mindful of the extremely valuable nature of these drawings. Do not touch or make rubbings of the petroglyphs as it compromises the carving.

If you are in this area towards dusk you may notice, depending on the wind, that some VOG (volcanic gases) may settle here. These gases have a strong and slightly sulfuric smell which also leaves a metallic aftertaste. In small doses VOG will not harm a healthy person but it is not recommended that pregnant women, those with heart or lung conditions or small children should be exposed.

Mile Marker 18.3 Holei Sea Arch
In a park where the main attraction is an ever-changing force of nature, there is no telling how the landscape could change. Since 1983 Kilauea has been eating portions of the Chain of Craters Road and covering the villages on it with its lava flows. In early 2003, lava buried portions of the Chain of Craters Road which prompted park rangers to limit vehicle travel at mile marker 19.3. Currently the park has set up a turn around point with a small ranger station, pit toilets, and a canteen. Parking is available on either side of the road.

Once you pass the barricade, on your right is short trail to the ocean and a view of Holei Sea Arch. Sea arches are formed when lava is continuously pounded by the surf until it is undercut in the shape of an arch.

The end of the road
Currently the park allows visitors to walk the mile down Chain of Craters Road to where the lava begins. There is a brief video presentation in a pavilion near the ranger station that outlines the dangers of this area. We recommend you take a minute and watch it. If you plan on hiking beyond where the lava meets the road please take a few precautions. Bring plenty of water, approximately three quarts for the entire hike. Carry rain gear, sun block, and flashlights. The temperature drops with the sun, so carry a lightweight jacket or sweatshirt just in case.

The trail branches at the end of the road. To the right is a shorter trail on uneven lava to the steam plume viewing area. Providing the lava ocean entry point is close enough, you may see a giant white plume rising out of the juncture where the lava and the ocean meet. You can also choose to go straight up and over and hike onto the lava fields. The rangers will have placed small reflective markers for the first portion of the hike after which light beacons will guide your path. How far you can hike is determined by the volcano’s activity. Check with the rangers on duty to see where they have marked the end of the trail.

The lava fields are a sight to behold and, for those capable of the hike, a must. Hiking across lava may include unsure footing, jagged rock and high winds but the payoff is amazing. The flows stretch in front of you like a massive black ocean glittering in the sun. The lava has created waves and valleys of varying degrees. You can see where the pahoehoe lava has created interesting swirls and ropey patters. The landscape is punctuated by raised up hills where gases escaped. To get an idea of how deep this ocean really is, you will pass several road signs that were nearly buried by recent flows. Remember though, never venture out onto the lava bench nearest to the ocean. This land is very unstable and prone to collapse without warning. Some foolish people have not heeded this warning and paid for it with their lives.

Nighttime is one of the most magical times to be on the lava fields. Head out from the ranger station just a little before dusk and pick a good viewing spot to watch the lava entry. As the sun sinks, a red glow that is not visible during the day, illuminates the steam plume in an eerie red hue. If you are fortunate enough to be lava watching on a clear night, look up. With the only lights being what you are holding in your hand, star gazing is phenomenal.

Location: Chain of Craters Road is located in the Volcano Region

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