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Chain of Craters Road
Mile Marker 2 Hilina Pali Road
The 8.2 mile trip down narrow Hilina Pali Road may not offer much in the way of gorgeous scenery. However, the breathtaking views at the end are worth the effort if you have the time.
The paved road leads you past the vegetation of Chain of Craters Road into the arid, scrubby environment of the Ka’u Desert. Camp Kulanaokuaiki is about four miles down Hilina Pali Road followed by the head of the 6.3 mile Mauna Iki Trail and later the old Kipuka Nene Campground. Kipuka Nene has been closed since the endangered nene, the state bird of Hawaii similar to a Canadian goose, began nesting there but don’t expect to see a lot of nene hanging around. Although if you do, please do not disturb them or offer them food. Occasionally Hilina Pali is closed due to fire or nene nesting.
The road continues to twist and turn over the bumpy and rutted pavement until you finally reach the Hilina Pali Lookout – this could take as long as half an hour. The lookout boasts a covered picnic pavilion and pit toilet. You can walk a hundred yards down the trail to an extraordinary view of the pali (cliff in Hawaiian). With the strong winds whipping around you and the expanse of land in front, it seems like the end of the world – a wild and beautiful place. It was also the site of a disaster in 1975 when a 7.2 magnitude earthquake shook portions of the pali free. The collapse caused a tsunami that killed two campers at Halape camp on the coast. There is a small plaque in their memory. The return trip is easy, simply go back to where you came from being mindful of oncoming traffic trying to share the portions of one lane road.
Mile Marker 2.2 Devil’s Throat
Just after you turn back onto Chain of Craters Road, look for a small pullout on the right. Park and walk across the road to a dirt path. The path leads about 50 feet to the edge of a sheer cliff which drops off into the abyss. This massive 150 ft. wide by 165 ft. deep crater is called Devil’s Throat – and one can imagine why. There are no guard rails to block you so please step carefully around the crumbling edges of the pit. Further down the road at mile marker 2.5 is Hi’iaka Crater with Pauahi Crater following at 3.1. Pauahi is massive at 1,800 feet long and a boardwalk is provided for a better view.
Mile Marker 3.6 Mauna Ulu and Napau Crater Trail
After passing Pauahi crater, look for a spur road to the left. Follow it about half a mile to a parking lot with a restroom. At the end of the road there is a path that leads to the Napau Crater Trailhead. The entire trail is over seven miles long and requires a permit. However, the first leg, a little over a mile will take you to Pu’u Huluhulu, a tree-draped cinder cone. This area is the site of Kilauea’s second longest flank eruption in known history.
The trail zig zags through a field of jagged a’a and smooth pahoehoe lava from 1974 flows. The path is fairly well worn but make sure to follow the small reflective trail makers set out on the lava. Take a moment to observe this varied landscape. There will be small groupings of trees and plant life that seem to spring out of nowhere amidst a field of pitch black lava. These areas, called kipukas, are parcels of land that by luck were spared from the lava flows. Several lava trees and massive lava bombs also dot the trail.
After about a mile of trekking across lava, you will reach Pu’u Huluhulu, which is literally translated “hairy hill” because of the wealth of vegetation that has overgrown the crater. The trail snakes up the side of the crater in a series of switchbacks eventually leading to an observation area. This hike is best done on a clear day because of what you might see off in the distance to the east. If conditions are right and the volcano is active, you should be able to glimpse Pu’u O’o, the center of Kilauea’s current eruption, belching white smoke up into the sky. If you decide to hike this at night, you may be treated to the red glow of flowing lava.
From the top of Pu’u Huluhulu you can also see Mauna Ulu to your right which flooded this area with lava from 1969-1974. From the bottom of the crater, the Napau Trail continues on to Napau Crater and Camp. The journey to Napau is seven miles one way over wild and fascinating landscape. The trail skirts around the mouth of Makaopuhi Crater and eventually ends at Napau Camp which has neither water nor shelter. Rangers recommend a stock of at least three quarts of water per day for the hike. A camping permit can be obtained from the Kilauea Visitor Center.
Mile Marker 6.2 Mau Loa O Mauna Ulu
From the pullout you can see a sprawling black sea of pahoehoe lava which originated from the 1969-1974 eruption of Mauna Ulu. The Keauhou Trail begins here and continues eight miles to the Keauhou Camp on the coast.
Mile Marker 9.6 Kealakomo
As you approach the ten mile marker a wooden hut perched on the side of the cliff will come into view – an odd site for sure. The handicapped-accessible Kealakomo is built on the Holei Pali and peers down over a 2,000 ft drop to the ocean. The pavilion faces the direction of the Kealakomo village which was destroyed in a 1971 lava flow. The covered picnic tables may look inviting, but this spot can be quite windy, perhaps a better place to lose your lunch than eat it. The Naulu Trail begins across the street. It eventually connects with the Napau Crater Trail to the north. It also intersects the unmaintained 10-hour Kalapana trail.
Location: Chain of Craters Road is located in the Volcano Region
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