To most island visitors, it's that grey pasty stuff sitting in a wood bowl wedged between the pineapple chicken and teriyaki steak. To Hawaiians, it's the heart of any traditional Hawaiian table. Although most non- native Hawaiians have declared the sticky flavorless paste as unappetizing, many discerning Hawaiian palates know that the poi served up at local luau is neither the best nor the most flavorful. Serving such a special dish knowing that at a nightly feast where it certainly will be outshined and snubbed by the likes of other more mainstream dishes is obscene. However, finding and appreciating poi takes a bit of knowledge, effort and a discerning palate to find the best there is in the islands.

Poi is made by steaming the taro root then pounding taro root and adding water until the consistency is thick, smooth and creamy. Of the several types of the most prized lehua maoli. Still cultivated in the ways of the ancient Hawaiians, this taro requires lots of fresh clean water and produces a sweet lump free poi. Some Hawaiians swear by the naturally sweet flavored lehua maoli taro. The freshet poi produces a delicately sweet and fresh flavor but some prefer their poi on the tangy side. This tang results in preparing and keeping the poi from one to three days before eating. Another personal preference for poi is the thickness. Ideally “one finger poi” should be thick enough to eat by dipping a finger into the bowl scooping it and eating it without dripping. Others prefer a “two finger” or “three finger” poi that is thinner as more fingers are needed.

Expert poi shoppers will be informed as to when the poi is delivered to the local supermarket and plan their menus accordingly. Look for freshly delivered poi with a deep grayish brown color. In times of lehua maoli taro shortage, one may find a beige colored poi on the shelves. This poi should be avoided by poi novices because it’s bitter flavor and gritty consistency.

The latest trend in poi is called pa’i or pounding. This hand pounded poi comes from kalo straight from the lo’i where it retains a sweet flavor consistency is determined by the pounder. This resurgence is still on the grass-roots level and samples of this flavorful product can be found only at festivals and native events.

So, the next time you find poi on the table, be sure to have a taste, and perhaps the appreciation will come from the history more than the flavor.

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